Ice Dams in New Jersey: Why They Happen and How to Actually Prevent Them
Every February we get a wave of phone calls: "my gutters are full of ice and water is coming in over my front door." That's an ice dam, and the cause is almost never the gutter, the roof, or the shingle. It's the attic.
How ice dams form
Snow falls on the roof. Warm attic air (leaking through ceiling penetrations, recessed lights, and inadequate insulation) heats the underside of the roof deck. The snow on the heated upper part of the roof melts, runs down toward the cold eave that's not heated by attic air, refreezes at the eave into an ice ridge — and the next round of meltwater backs up behind that ice ridge, finds an opening between the shingles, and runs down into the wall.
What doesn't fix ice dams
Heated cables strung along the eaves: they make water channels through the ice ridge but don't fix the cause. Constant energy use. Most homeowners with cable systems still get ice dams a few feet upslope of the cables.
Chiseling the ice off the eaves: dangerous, damages the shingles, and the dam reforms within days.
Adding more gutters or larger downspouts: the water isn't in the gutters yet when the leak happens. Gutters are downstream of the problem.
What does fix ice dams
Three things, in priority order:
- Seal the attic floor. Every gap where warm air leaks up — top-plate gaps, recessed light cans (use ICAT-rated cans and seal them), bathroom fan ductwork, dropped soffits — gets air-sealed. This is the single most effective fix.
- Add insulation. R-49 (about 14" of cellulose or fiberglass) is the modern NJ target. Most pre-1990 houses have R-19 to R-30. Adding insulation to R-49 keeps attic air cold so the roof deck stays cold so the snow doesn't melt prematurely.
- Balance ventilation. Continuous ridge vent at the top + continuous soffit vent at the eaves. Both. Most pre-1980 houses have neither, or just bath-fan whirlybirds that don't move enough air.
The roof side of the fix
On a roof replacement, we install ice-and-water shield (peel-and-stick membrane) at the eaves running at least 24 inches inside the warm-wall line. That doesn't prevent the dam — it stops the leak even when a dam forms. It's a backup, not a substitute for the attic work above.
What we do during a dam emergency
If you're calling us in February with active leaking, the short-term fix is steam removal of the ice ridge (specialized service — we coordinate with companies that do this). We don't chisel ice off your eaves and won't recommend any company that does.
After spring thaw, we sit down with you and look at the attic. The permanent fix is up there, not on the roof.

The Zubar Roofing Team
Written and reviewed by the team at Zubar Roofing & Exterior Systems — a family-run, licensed New Jersey roofing contractor (NJ HIC #13VH14090300) and credentialed GAF, Owens Corning, and CertainTeed installer serving Bergen, Passaic, Essex, Hudson, and Morris counties. Everything here comes from real jobs across our service area, not generic advice. More about us · (973) 337-9001
